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The Leaping Ouananiche 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

WHAT IT IS 

WHERE, WHEN and HOW 

TO CATCH IT 



BY 

EUGENE McGARTHY 



$ 



NEW YORK 

FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY 

1894 






ot\ 



l>^\ 



Copynght, i!^Q4, by the 
Forest and Stream Piiblisliing Company 



'11 



A First Word 

So LITTLE has been written about ouananiche fishing, its 
modes and its merits, its charms and its rewards, that there 
is call for a handbook of specific information concerning the 
fish and of definite instructions in the art of its enticement. 
Impelled by the obligation which rests upon every sportsman 
to give his fellows in the craft the fruit of his own experience 
and knowledge, I have prepared this brochure. Its purpose 
is to put into compact and intelligent form all that may be 
necessary for the guidance of newcomers in the picturesque 
haunts of this noble game fish. 

The volume is dedicated to my fellow sportsmen; to all 
those who may find in it practical helpfulness; to all who in 
the freedom and freshness of the woods may give over for a 
time the tax of business, and as did Izaak Walton himself, ^ 
may find in fishing forgetfulness of the vexations and v/orries 
of life. 

E. McC. 



What It Is 



What It Is 

Five years ago, I accidentally heard that away 
to the north in the wilds of Canada, there was 
a new fishing territory opened up to the angler, 
the Lake St. John region; and I heard, too, for 
the first time, the name of that crreat fish, tne 
ouananiche. 

I at once made the trip, for I was completely 
worked up over the glowing accounts I had 
heard ; and finding them to be all truth, and no 
fiction, I became a most enthusiastic admirer of 
the sport to be had in that country, and have 
spent a month or more there each year since. 

The fighting qualities of this fish are so great 
that they pass understanding, and with five years 
of experience in angling for them, I conclude each 
year that I know less about how^ to hook, handle 
and land them. 

9 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

True, I have ahvays saved enough to satisfy in 
point of numbers, but it does hurt one's pride to 
feel at the end of each day's catch, that 3^ 
pounds of fish has frequently outwitted 225 
pounds of man; and that the man's superior in- 
tellio-ence has availed him only to the extent of 
savino- less than half of the pugnacious ouananiche 
that have become acquainted with his hook. 

The word ouananiche is a new one but recently 
in use amongst anglers, as it represents a new 
member of the salmon family, found in a new 
section of country, and is a fish but little known, 
even at present. Already classed above the black 
bass and brook trout as a fighter, and ranking 
second only to the salmon (Salmo salar), it is 
destined to become the most sought after and 
noted of our game fish. It is peculiar alone to 
Lake St. John in the Province of Quebec and its 
tributaries, and these waters having been practi- 
cally opened to easy access within a few years 
only, the existence of this wonderful fish is rap- 
idly attracting the attention of noted fishermen. 
How much tackle will be broken, how many rods 
smashed, and arms lamed, will result from the 




'1^7 7 ? :k'*j ^ 



.11 




The Leaping Ouananiche 

introduction of the ouananiche to the anghng 
pubhc cannot be told. 

The outlet of Lake St. John, the Saguenay, has 
always been noted as a fine salmon river, for it 
receives smaller fresh water rivers that afford fine 
spawning grounds. At some remote period, the 
entire river to the lake afforded easy ascent for 
the spawning salmon. Some upheaval of nature 
occurred, raising an impassable barrier at Chicou- 
timi, a fall of some 60 or 70 feet in height, im- 
prisoning the salmon above. Thus prevented from 
returning to salt water, they have become land- 
locked salmon, or ouananiche, depreciated in size 
only from their original progenitors. 

The word ouananiche is from the dialect of the 
Montagnais Lidians who inhabit the country about 
Lake St. John. They have always been familiar 
with this fish, and understanding its derivation, 
have properly named it ''oiianan^' meaning salmon, 
and '' iche'' the diminutive — "the little salmon." 

Report has it that one of 14 pounds was taken 
in the Little Dischage of the lake several years 
ago, but none approximating that weight have 
been taken since. In an ordinary catch the fish 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

will average from 3 to 3^ pounds each, although 
smaller and larger ones are as frequently caught. 
I have seen several taken weighing 8 to 8^ pounds, 
but individually, 7^ pounds has been the largest 
I have secured. 

The ouananiche differs materially from the land- 
locked salmon found in a few of the Maine lakes. 
While both are so-called land-locked salmon, they 
differ somewhat in appearance, the former being 
caught almost exclusively in the swiftest running 
rapids entirely with the fly; the latter in the smooth, 
quiet waters of lakes, and principally with the spoon. 
Concerninor the relative merits of the two fish, and 
especially the manner of catching them, there can 
be no comparison or controversy, and I will not 
therefore go further into the subject. 

Upon making a close comparison of a 7^/^-pound 
ouananiche with an 18-pound salmon, side by side, 
as I had an opportunity to do recently, I could 
discover little, if any, difference; they are truly 
congeneric. The contour difters in not even a 
slight degree. The color, almost black on the 
back, shades to a light gray on the side, while the 
belly is silvery white; in all respects colored as is 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

the sahnon. It has a true sahnon head, large, 
round, black spots appear on the gills, the vSt. 
Andrew crosses on the body are plentiful, it has 
the small fleshy fin on top anterior to the tail, 
peculiar to the salmon family. The fins, especi- 
ally the caudal, and the tail, are extremely large. 
The scales are an exact counterpart of those of 
the salmon, while the flesh is hard and flaky, al- 
ways pink, although varying in shade, and proper- 
ly cooked, it is fully equal to, if not better than 
that of the salmon. When first caught and taken 
from the water, the back and sides of the ouanan- 
iche have a most beautiful peacock blue shade that 
one must stop and admire. This disappears within 
a few moments, and gives place to the true sal- 
mon color described above. 

Its natural lurking place is in swift running ra- 
pids, or the foam-covered, whirling, eddying pools 
below. It seems almost impossible to find water 
too rapid for these fish, and I have often taken 
them on experimental casts from a seething, mist- 
hidden pool directly under a ten or twelve foot 
heavy fall. The power derived from its large 
fins and tail, easily enables it to move through, 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

and rest in the most rapid water, and by the same 
power it can jump fully twelve feet of sheer fall, 
as I have frequently seen them do. Take into 
consideration the rough water in which the ouanan- 
iche is hooked and played, as also the fact that 
a seven-ounce rod is holding a ground and lofty 
tumbling fish against this current, and some idea 
can be had of the merits of this fishing. Such 
is the ouananiche, or land-lockecl salmon of Lake 
St. John. Akin to the salt-water salmon in every 
particular, except size, it is a beautiful fish to look 
upon, the strongest and hardest fighter that I have 
ever met with, one that tests the tackle and skill 
of the angler to the fullest extent; in total, the 
king of fresh-water fish. 

One of the best descriptions of the game qual- 
ities of the ouananiche that I have ever seen, 
appeared in the Quebec Chronicle a few years 
ago, and it so impressed me that I have always 
had it in mind since. It is so germane to the 
subject in hand, that it is worthy of repetition, 
and I will reproduce it here: 

"In proportion to their size, these ouananiche 

are the gamiest fish that swim. They are pecu- 

14 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

liar to Lake vSt. John and its tributaries; but hook 
a respectable ouananiche in the boiling waters of 
the Grand Discharge, and you have entered upon 
a fight as different in comparison with other fish, 
as is that with a dark-colored trout hooked in the 
heaviest rapids, compared with the half-hearted 
struggle of a dainty fingerling in a crystal lake. 
In proportion to his avoirdupois, he can do more 
tackle smashing, pound for pound, than any fish 
that swims. His leaps are terrific; he can give 
a black bass long odds, and then show him points 
in high jumping." 



Where 



Wh 



ere 



I well remember examining a map of the Prov- 
ince of Quebec to find Lake St. John, and how 
to get there. Located as it is, two hundred miles 
due north of the city of Quebec, and the map 
showing but little settlement, and giving only an 
imperfect idea of what is beyond, I felt as though 
I was going to leave the confines of civilization 
far behind. 

An examination to-day of the latest map of Ca- 
nada, will convey merely an idea of the vastness 
of the primeval, unsettled forest without any detail 
Especially north of Lake St. John is this true; 
a few tracings showing only the rivers will in- 
dicate all — ^and how little — known of the terri- 
tory. But little effort is being made by the Gov- 
ernment to explore and map it, and I firmly be- 

19 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

lieve that American sportsmen will discover the 
topography first, in their desire to find new hunt- 
ing and fishing grounds. Lake St. John is by far 
the largest body of water to be found for several 
hundred miles north of the St. Lawrence River. 
Bearing the hidian name Pikouagami, this inland 
sea measuring fully 30 miles across in any direc- 
tion, lies deep in the midst of the old Laurentian 
Mountains, a marvel of beauty to the artist, a par- 
adise to the angler. Tributary to the lake are 
some eighteen rivers, large and small, flowing from 
all points of the compass. The most noted are 
the Ashuapmouchouan from the northwest, the 
Mistassini from the north, the Peribonca from the 
northeast,, the Metabetchouan and Ouiatchouan 
from the south, the Ouiatchouaniche and Iroquois 
from the west. The three first named rivers are 
respectively 300, 350 and 400 miles in length, very 
deep, and will average from one and a half to 
two miles wide at their mouth. 

For all this great inrush of water, but one outlet 
is provided by nature, the Saguenay River, or as 
it is termed until iw reaches tide water, the Grand 
Discharge. Taking its course through a mountain 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

chasm filled with rocks, rapids and falls, this 
great body of water hurls itself against and over 
the opposing barriers with mighty strength, boil- 
ing, surging and leaping with an indescribable 
roar and confusion, until with its final pluncre at 
Chicoutimi, as the dark, mysterious Saguenay, it 
quietly seeks the sea. 

The south shore of Lake St. John, cleared back 
for a distance of about three miles, is settled to 
some extent ; back of this, two-thirds of the dis- 
tance to Quebec, is an unbroken forest. From 
the lake north to St. James Ba)-, it is absolutely 
unsettled with the exception of a few Hudson Bay 
Company posts and depots for supplies. Primeval 
forest, a network of rivers and lakes ! Who can 
fully gauge the success that awaits the hunter or 
fisherman who penetrates it ? Properly, the abid- 
ing place of the ouananiche, the Lake St. John 
country offers as well unequalled trout fishing 
and splendid hunting for large and small game. 
Connected now with Quebec by the Quebec and 
Lake St. John Railroad, the trip is made in eight 
hours, through a wild, wooded mountain country, 
the picturesqueness of which relieves the journey 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

from monotony and fatigue. On arrival is found 
the Hotel Roberval, perfect in all respects, every 
facility being offered the sportsman for his suc- 
cess and every effort put forth for the comfort 
of all. Within twenty-four hours ride of New York, 
these Canadian Adirondacks are as accessible and 
convenient in all ways as are the Adirondacks of 
New York State. 

Ouananiche fishing is found only in Lake St. 
John, the various rivers flowing into it, and the 
Grand Discharge. None of the surrounding lakes, 
unless in direct connection with the rivers, con- 
tain them. At the first glance this is apparently 
a small and circumscribed territory. How quickly, 
however, will the first visit dispel that idea; the 
magnitude of the lake, the length and breadth of 
the rivers, will prove that there is ample room 
for the multitude of fishermen who may visit it. 

All this territory, beginning some lo or 12 miles 
soufh of the lake, including 12 miles of the Grand 
Discharge, and extending north to the watershed 
of the great rivers mentioned, embracing all the 
territory drained by them, in extent over 100,000 
square miles, is owned by, or leased to, Mr. H. J. 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

Beemer of Montreal. Upon the completion of the 
railroad from Quebec, jMr. Beemer, recognizing- the' 
value of the country to sportsmen, erected the 
magnificent Hotel Roberval, and threw open with- 
out charge this immense preserve to patrons of 
the house. Three years later, the Island House 
at the Grand Discharge was built under the same 
manacrement, for the convenience of fishermen at 
that point. A daily communication across the 
lake, between the two hotels, is maintained by the 
large sidewheel steamer " Mistassini." 

Naturally the most convenient place to visit, 
and affordinof at all seasons orood average fishino-, 
the Discharge attracts the greater number of vis- 
itors, but the fishing pools are numberless, and 
there is ample room for all. The supply of 
ouananiche is in reality inexhaustible, and it is 
certain that this and the succeeding generation of 
anglers will fail to deplete them. For trips up 
any of the rivers, the start is usually made from 
the vicinity of the Roberval, guides and canoes 
being engaged there. Provisions, tents, blankets, 
camp kits — in fact, everything needed for a com- 
fortable camp — are furnished at the hotel. 

23 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

To those intending- to visit Lake St. John, I 
would advise that nothing except necessary cloth- 
ing and tackle should be taken, and nothing dif- 
ferent in clothinor from that used in the New York 
Adirondacks. Althouo-h much further north than 
the Adirondacks, the weather is quite warm, with 
occasional very hot days, the nights only proving 
cold. The country is so vast, the sport both in 
hunting and fishing so varied, the facilities for 
reaching- it so good, the conveniences for comfort 
so complete, that it seems impossible for one to 
make a trip there and return dissatisfied. 

How different is all this from the Adirondack 
region of New York, which formerly offered plenty 
of fishing and hunting; and from its nearby loca- 
tion, so easy of access, has been, and is the Mecca 
of thousands of sportsmen. The relentless lumber- 
man, a railroad dividing this region in twain, 
other connecting roads under way, have all con- 
spired to bring about the early clearing of the 
forest, and the rapid disappearance of the deer 
and trout, formerly so abundant. Many preserves 
have been taken up by clubs for the use of their 
members only, thus reducing a territory alreaciy 

24 



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ft) 

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The Leaping Ouananiche 

circumscribed, open to other seekers for sport, to 
small and confined sections that are fairly high- 
ways of travel, and overrun. Others recognize 
these facts as well as I, and that the end must 
come — is near at hand. Nothing therefore is left 
but to change one's grounds. The Lake St. John 
country offers every inducement ; a new country, 
and a new fish, plenty of trout and game, will 
reward the sportsman so amply, that he will ex- 
claim, as did I, "Eureka!" 



When 



Wh 



en 



The question as to the proper time to go to 
Lake St. John for ouananiche is often asked me. 
Fortunately, the season is of such duration, and 
the fishing- ahvays so good, that it will suit the va- 
cation time of almost all. 

The season for ouananiche fishing is at any time 
from the breaking up of the ice in the spring, 
until the close of the open season. The fishing 
is always there, good at all times during the time 
mentioned, but must be sought after in different 
waters as the season advances. 

The ice breaks up in Lake St. John anywhere 
from May 15th to June ist, generally about May 
20th. The Hotel Roberval opens about June ist, 
and closes September 15th, thus accommodating 



20 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

anglers at all times. Between these dates is the 
proper time for ouananiche; before June ist it is 
too early and cold. With September 15th begins 
the close season, extending- to December ist. From 
the breaking up of the ice until about June loth 
to 15th, the fishing is entirely in the bays at the 
mouth of the smaller rivers emptying into the lake, 
notably the Ouiatchouan, Ouiatchouaniche, and 
Metabetchouan. From June 15th to July ist to 
loth the fishing is confined to the Grand Dis- 
charge. 

Following this, the July, August and September 
fishing is to be had at best in the larger rivers, 
the Ashouapmouchouan. Mistassini, and Peribonca. 
As these latter months advance, the ouananiche 
must be followed on their course up these rivers 
towards the spawning beds. 

Fair fishing can be had in the Discharge at 
all times, but a good angler appreciates fishing 
best, when success is attended b)' a fair amount 
of work to attain it. Therefore will he seek the 
more distant pools of the rivers last mentioned, 
and always return satisfied with his trip, the un- 
equalled sport he has had, and his catch. It is 

30 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

no exaggeration to say that good catches can al- 
ways be had. True, there are days when, 

"Wind from the east, 
The fish bite least," 

prevail, the elements conspire to prevent, or. the 
fish themselves are not running. However, a week 
or ten days spent at the proper place at the 
proper times mentioned, will insure a satisfactory 
catch. 

In five years' experience I have heard but one 
opinion in regard to catching this land-locked sal- 
mon, and that Is that it far surpasses fishing for 
any other fresh-water fish. 

There have been a very few who visited Lake 
St. John with onl)^ one or two days in which to 
fish, and being limited in time, had necessarily to 
ofo to the Grand Dischara;e, althouorh either too 
late In the season for that point, or had a day 
when the fishing was not at Its best, entailing poor 
catches, or little sport. Ouananiche, like trout or 
bass, will at times fight poorly, but only at times. 
To-day deadened and stupefied by the conditions 
of the water and elements, to-morrow very much 
alive and fighting as they alone can fight. 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

A hurried trip to Lake St. John for fishing is 
not to be advised. At least two weeks should be 
taken, which, excluding the time spent on the jour- 
ney, will leave at least a week or ten days — suf- 
hcient to visit any point where the best fishing 
may prevail. 

For fishing the Grand Discharge, the fisher- 
man makes his headquarters at the Island House, 
making daily canoe trips to the various pools ; or, 
if preferred, a camping trip can be made as far 
down as Lsle Maleine. It is beyond the power 
of description to convey an idea of the grandeur, 
excitement and thrilling experiences which attend 
canoe fishing in the Discharge. Seemingly impas- 
sable rapids are descended, the skill of the Ca- 
nadian, or Indian canoemen guiding the canoe 
easily between and around rocks, through swift 
currents and heaving pools, now crossing rapids 
close above a fall or the boiling waters below, 
until one enters fully into the excitement, all fear 
allayed. 

In undertaking a camping trip up the larger 
rivers, thci start can be made by canoe from the 

hotel, or time can be saved by taking the small 

32 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

steamer "Undine." In the event of heavy winds, 
this would be absohitely necessary, as the lake is 
then impassable for canoes. By taking" the steamer, 
putting- the canoes, provisions, etc., aboard and 
ascending the Peribonca or INIistassini as far as 
navigation is possible, the greater part of a day 
can be saved. A like saving can be effected in 
a trip up the Ashouapmouchouan, by carting canoes 
and baggage over a fair road around the head 
of the lake to Bear Falls on the river, where the 
fishing commences and the canoe trip begins. 

A. trip that has l)een but seldom taken and one 
offering- the greatest possibilities for successful fish- 
ine, is to leave the river some 40 miles above 
Lake St. John, thence to go by river and portage 
to Lake a-Jim, where trout and ouananiche abound. 
Thence again through various streams, ponds and 
portage to the Mistassini, where the famous fisli- 
ino- pools of the Fifth Falls can be fished and the 
return made down that river. At least two weeks 
are required to make this trip. 

The Fifth Flails of the Mistassini, from their for- 
mation, afford one of the finest ouananiche pools 
in the whole territor\-. The falls are full)' 30 feet 



The Leaping Ouananiche 



in height, and unless the water is of good height^ 
the fish cannot ascend tliem ; as a consequence, 
the pool below nearly always affords fine fishing.. 
The falls are reached by canoe in a day and a 
half from the hotel. The Peribonca is usually as- 
cended as far as Lake Tshotagama, distant about 
50 miles from the Roberval. On this trip there 
are eleven falls, around each of which a portage 
must be made, two days' steady canoeing being 
necessary to reach the lake. Here are found 
ouananiche of large size and plentiful, a fine camp- 
ing place and most magnificent mountain scenery. 

I have neglected to state that all trips are made 
by means of birch bark canoes. These are built 
by the Indians and are marvels of beauty, strength 
and lightness. More comfortable by far than a 
boat, they are absolutely safe. \n fact, many 
waters now accessible through their medium, could 
not be reached in a small boat of any other de- 
scription. 

Other trips without number can be made, but 
I have noted only those that I have found to be 
the easiest and where at the proper time satisfac- 
tory success can be had. 

34 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

It would take a long- chapter to describe even 
a few of the many trips possible for trout and 
game, and for that reason I have mentioned in 
detail only those that should properly be made 
for the best of ouananiche fishine. Mr. Patterson, 
who has charge of the guides at the Roberval 
and who for many years was in the Hudson Bay 
Company's employ at Lake St. John, will suggest 
and describe numberless places to visit for suc- 
cessful hunting or fishing of any kind. In the 
past his business has caused him to make trips 
in all directions, and almost every foot of the ter- 
ritory is perfectly familiar to him. One has but 
to suggest the kind of sport wanted and the 
length of time to be spent, and he will plan the 
trips and arrange all details. 

Owinor to this arrano-ement, those visiting Lake 
St. John for the first time can feel assured that 
they will know at once the best places to go for 
g-ood sport and how to reach them. 



How 



H 



ow 



"Felt the loose line jerk and tighten; 
As he drew it in, it tugged so 
That the birch bark canoe stood endwise." 

Aptly do the words of Hiawatha portray, in 
part, what I wish to describe. 

"How!" A small word indeed, but what a 
task its explanation sets before me to perform. 
Should I begin by confessing that I do not know 
how to catch ouananiche myself, I believe that 
I would approximate the truth. The more time 
one spends in this fishing, and the more one 
studies the fish, the sooner one's belief is strencrth- 
ened that the knowledge which should follow prac- 
tice grows less instead of greater. With experi- 
ence in catching ouananiche, one formulates cer- 
tain ideas as to the proper way to strike them, 

39 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

to play them, and to land them. Suddenly a 
change comes over the spirit of the fish, and the 
supposed proper methods are far better to honor 
in the breach rather than in the' observance. These 
changes are radical, and oft-occurring; applying as 
well to just where to find them as to their action 
when striking and when hooked. 

I have before mentioned that the ouananiche 
are great fighters, surpassing even the trout and 
black bass in this particular; and it would almost 
seem as though there was method in their fight, 
they vary it in quality but not in quantity. 

To-day they are to be caught only in the white, 
boiling water just under a fall, to-morrow in the 
more quiet water beyond ; to-day they fight when 
hooked, by constantly leaping from the water, to- 
morrow by running and sulking deep clown ; now 
they make prodigious jumps for a passing darning 
needle, or some other member of the mouche 
family, and are not to be tempted by any of our 
flies. Again they rise quickly to any color or 
kind of cast that we may give them. 

When an ouananiche is hooked, he is not even 

half caught ; as my guides would say, ''Brcbis covip- 

40 




.'^^JSft^i* 











The Leaping Ouananiche 

tees, le loup les mange/' trul)' one should not count 
their chickens before they are hatched, nor their 
ouananiche before they are netted. 

The ouananiche has one mortal enemy in the 
pickerel {broe/iel), with which Lake St. John 
abounds, and which grow to enormous size. I 
have frequently caught ouananiche bearing large 
scars, both recent and old, showing narrow escapes 
from the enemy. Perhaps feeling the wound when 
hooked, and attributing it to their natural enemy, 
may have something to do with causing them to 
fight as they will, hi an)' event, the fighting they 
do is simply tremendous. 

Ill rough water the ouananiche is rarely seen 
when he takes the fly, the choppy waves conceal- 
ing his strike. The first intimation will be to see 
it jump from the water in the vicinity of the cast, 
and a severe tightening strain on the line. If 
this occurs when the cast is being drawn in and 
the rod elevated back, something will break unless 
it is possible for the tip to be rapidly given. If 
in smooth M'ater, the strike can be seen, and the 
tip given at once. 

Strike the fish firmly, but without a sharp jerk, 

41 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

as they usually hook only in the lip, lightly, and 
the rty is easily torn out. Follow at once by draw- 
ing quickly an absolutely tight line, never relax, 
even an inch. Stop the reel, draw out between 
the reel and first rine from three to four feet of 
line taut in the left hand. Give the fish the butt 
of the rod as much as possible, hold it absolutely 
tight without giving line except when it leaps; 
then slightly drop the tip and follow the leap with 
the necessary line from that held in the left hand. 
Being held absolutely in check without slack, the 
fish runs only within a short radius, pulling usu- 
ally with all its strength ; this may result in laming 
the wrist, but more fish are saved. If preferred, 
the reel can be used and the ouananiche allowed 
to run, but they turn and return so quickly that 
the slack can not easily be recovered ; result, that 
another run with the slack tightens the line with 
a jerk, the hook is torn out or broken, and the 
fish gone. Individually, I find an automatic reel 
preferable, as it will take the slack as rapidly as 
^^1-Iven, and to it I attribute the saving of many 
fish. Never hurry the fish, or attempt to lead it 
to the net until satisfied that it is thoroughly 

42 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

tired out, and do not relax the strain, or watch- 
fidness, until safely netted. An ouananiche of 
about 3 pounds weight will require fully fifteen 
to twenty minutes or more, to kill it, and it will 
fight hard every moment. 

Now it will leap from the water anywhere from 
two or three to a dozen times, rising fully three 
or four feet from the surface, returnine to the 
water only to make an immediate wild rush to- 
ward the bottom. If near a fall, it will make 
many attempts to rush under the falling water, or 
in the rough part of the rapids, there to sulk, 
pull, and often shake violently to release the hook. 
Then perhaps, a rush toward the fisherman, a quick 
turn and deep clown again, a moment's rest and 
then a violent race to and fro, as far as the line 
will permit. The jumps are quick, and occur when 
least expected often following one another in quick 
succession. In fact, the fish are never at rest, but 
change their tactics every moment : each fish fights 
differently, the method pursued in catching one 
will scarcely apply to the next. The hand and 
mind must act in unison quickly, and both will 
be thoroughly occupied. There are so many "■ifs' 

43 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

that it is easy to understand how questionable is 
the saving- of the fish after being hooked. If well 
hooked, if the hook shall tear out, or if the hook, 
leader, line or rod shall not break. Be prepared 
to lose, as a rule, more fish than )'ou save ; that 
is the common experience. 

In reorard to the selection of tackle, the greatest 
care must be used. I find that an "E" silk line 
with a 6-foot leader is best, and am always sure 
that my leaders and flies are new, well made, and 
will stand a good prior test. An "E" line being 
heav)', is less liable to break, and cannot be cut 
by the rocks when drawn across them, as fre- 
quently happens in playing a fish. A short leader 
is necessary to prevent its being tangled in the 
rough water of the rapids, or from the Aiolent play 
of the fish. 

All anglers have their favorite rods, either split 
bamboo, lancewood, or greenheart. All are good 
— the lighter and more spring)- the)^ are, the 
better. Rods from 6j^ to 8 ounces in weight are 
the best, although lighter and even much heavier 
ones are used. The practical point is to have 
l^lenty of them, at least two or three, with several 

44 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

extra tips. Broken rods, and tips especially, are 
a frequently occurring contingency of ouananiche 
fishing. 

Eight or ten varieties form an ample variety of 
flies, and most of them should be tied on No. 4 
hooks. The Jock Scott, Silver Doctor, Brown 
Hackle, Cow Dung, Seth Green, Lord Baltimore, 
Parmacheene Belle, and Scarlet Ibis, I have al- 
ways found to give me sufficient variety, and I 
have rarely used anything else. A good supply 
should be taken, since those not broken soon be- 
come w^orn and battered from violent usage, are 
useless and need to be frequently renewed. I find, 
as a rule, that the most successful cast is Cow 
Dung or Brown Hackle for trailer, and a Jock 
Scott or Silver Doctor for dropper. Use two flies 
only, and fasten the dropper at the last knot on 
the leader next to the line. By doing this, it will 
skip the surface better, and will take most of the 
fish, as its action seems to attract them more. 

To orive advice iust how to fish for ouananiche, 
and to make fishing successful, is an utter impos- 
sibility; general information only can be given. It 
is practically necessary to know what to take in 

45 



The Leaping Oaananiche 

the way of cloth' ng, tackle, etc., as one is too far 
removed from a base of supplies to get anything 
that may be needed. It is necessary also to know 
what one has to combat with in catching the 
ouananiche, what to use, and in a general way how 
to use it. Such knowledge to the angler fishing 
these waters for the first time, will save him much 
vexation, a quantity of broken tackle, and per- 
chance some fish. Beyond this, his own acquired 
experience will be his guide. Experience alone 
can prove his teacher. As the French say, ''A 
force dc forger on devient forgeroii' — practice alone 
makes perfect. Previous fishing experience is a 
great aid, but the ouananiche is so totally dif- 
ferent from other fish that it is like learning a 
new art to successfully angle for and land it. 

When fishing the pools in the rivers, it is gen- 
erally better, and more convenient, to fish from 
the rocks, but in the Grand Discharge one can 
more readily reach the pools from a canoe. 

Imagine yourself in the midst of a boiling rapid, 

your canoe dancing and bounding on the troubled 

waters. You make a cast, and )'ou have hooked 

an ouananiche, or perhaps two, as sometimes hap- 

46 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

pens. Here you have excitement beyond compare. 
Imagine the skill necessary to handle and save' 
them ; your varied emotions ; your surroundings 
— all — and then one fully appreciates that he is 
engaged in the finest fishing known. No fitting- 
eulogy can be given such fishing. Only those 
who have been fortunate enough to enjoy it can 
understand and appreciate. 

But one proviso is to be made to insure satis- 
factory success in ouananiche fishing, and that is 
to take suf^cient time to fairly test them in the 
right waters at the right times mentioned. 



47 



other Sport to be Had 



Other Sport to be Had 

Variety is indeed a spice that adds materially 
to any kind of a trip undertaken for sport. No 
matter how good the fishing or hunting for any 
particular fish or game may be, if other kinds can 
be obtained in the same neighborhood, one tires 
of constantly working to secure one, and will seek 
the other also. 

Usually when trips are made, with special kinds 
of fishing or hunting in view, but little else than 
that sought can be obtained, and from force of 
circumstances one must be content, whether the 
sport be good or bad. 

I know of no one section of country that af- 
fords such a great variety of fish and game as does 
the Lake St. John territory; and that too, in al- 
most any part that may be visited. All the smaller 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

streams and lakes afford the very finest trout fish- 
ing. All the larger lakes and rivers contain pick- 
erel and pike {dorc). Moose are still quite numer- 
ous, and caribou very frequently seen. Black bear 
are met with on all sides. Of the smaller game, 
ducks of all kinds, and spruce partridge are found 
in greater numbers than I have ever seen else- 
where. Mink, martin, otter and muskrat are quite 
plentiful, and beaver occur in limited numbers. 

There is such a network of rivers, streams and 
lakes in this region that it is doubtful if one can 
go over half a mile in any direction without en- 
countering one or the other. Of this vast number, 
comparatively few have been fished, and those but 
little, so that one is given the choice of following 
beaten trails, or seeking new waters. In either 
event, the success will prove more than satisfying. 
Apart from that by the native Indians, who trap 
almost entirely, but little hunting has been done 
here ; as a consequence the game is very plentiful, 
and is easily reached. As the season for moose 
and caribou opens September ist, and ouananiche 
fishing closes September 15th, and trout fishing 

October ist, September is an ideal month to visit 

52 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

Lake St. John, as both fishing and hunting are 
open at the same time. Then, too, the bete noir 
of the woods, the black flies, mosquitoes and 
punkies, are gone. Of the magnificent trout fish- 
inor to be found in these Canadian Adirondacks, 
enough cannot be said, nor can justice be done it. 
No "fish stories" can be told of this country, as 
the possibilities are unlimited. According to the 
waters you seek, do you get large fish or small, 
as the case may be. 

Last season, two of us took in four hours from 
Lac de Belle Riviere, two hundred and twenty- 
five trout, eleven weighing 3^ to 4^^ pounds, and 
the balance from ^ to 2^/^ pounds. This year in 
the same waters, with stormy weather, we took 
exactly the same number in eleven hours, weigh- 
ing y^ to 21/^ pounds. Another catch shown, 
caught in one pool in an hour, comprised twenty- 
eight, weighing 90 pounds. These catches men- 
tioned are not isolated cases, but such as any one 
can make in the same, or many other places. I 
refer to brook trout {S. fontiiialis) only, as lake, 
or salmon trout, are almost unknown in these waters. 
Fishing with the fly only is practiced, and the hun- 

53 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

gry fish will take almost any lure, plain or gaudy, 
The same flies and tackle, used in ouananiche 
fishing, are suitable for trout. In fact, flies with 
No. 4 hooks are best, as they frequently fail to 
hook small fish that are not wanted, and would 
be thrown back. Individual fish have frequently 
been taken, weighing from six to ten pounds, and 
many more will be tempted from the deep, black 
waters in the future, as neither this nor the com- 
ing generation will see the fishing impaired. Dis- 
tant trips must be made for trout as well as ouanan- 
iche, although I have frequently caught 150 or 
more .small trout on the Ouiatchouaniche, eight or 
nine miles distant from the hotel. 

Fine pickerel fishing can be had by trolling in 
Lake St. John, the Grand Discharge, and many 
of the tributary rivers, some fish of immense size 
being taken. Those from 12 to 20 pounds are 
common, and some weighing from 30 to 40 pounds 
are not infrequently caught. Dore (pike) of good 
size are also taken, and frequently large ouanan- 
iche will take the spoon. Some No. 4 and 7 
spoons of various kinds, and strong trolling lines 
should always be included in the tackle outfit. It 

54 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

is often a relief to change from fly-fishing to 
troIHng, especially when such good fishing can be 
had in this way. The pickerel caught in these 
waters are not to be classed as maskinonQ;e, as this 
latter fish is never found anywhere here. 

A visit of great interest — a jaunt to fill in a day 
between trips — is a trip to the reservation and 
yearly encampment of the Montagnais Indians at 
Pointe Bleue, on the south shore of Lake St. John, 
five miles from the Hotel Roberval. In the midst 
of the reservation is located a post of the Hudson 
Bay Company. Here the Indians assemble each 
year to dispose of the furs secured during the pre- 
vious winter, in barter for the necessary clothing 
and for provisions to carry them through another 
hunting season. Here, too, they build their birch 
bark canoes, and arrange their hunting grounds. By' 
the I St of .September, the various families have 
started out, each to the point selected. In all 
directions they go, many far to the north, seeking 
the wilds of the Hudson Bay coast. Once arrived, 
they erect their simple cotton tents, which they 
heat with a small sheet iron stove, and in which 
they live during their winter hunt. But few of 

55 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

them use firearms, as they successfully rely upon 
their ingenious traps for both small and large game. 
This race of Indians, while of the Cree family, 
differ in that they are very black ; mostly Christian- 
ized, they are a particularly honest, nomadic people. 
Their knowledge of this country, near and far, is 
perfect, and therefore many are selected as guides ; 
and better workers, or more faithful ones, cannot 
be found. Nearly all speak French — but a few 
English. In fact, French alone is the language 
of the country. 

From Lake St. John to Chicoutimi, the head of 
navigation on the Saguenay, intervene 40 or 50 
miles of rapids. Many who prefer to return to 
Quebec by steamer through the far famed Saguenay 
and St. Lawrence Rivers, make the voyage to Chic- 
outimi by canoe through these rapids. It is made 
in a day, and a grand and thrilling trip it is. Easier 
to imagine than describe, it has been made hun- 
dreds of times, and never has a fatal accident oc- 
curred. This is owing to the perfect skill of the 
Canadian and Indian canoemen who make the trip. 
Brought up from childhood to handle a canoe, 

they navigate the rapids with absolute safety. 

56 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

After the novice in these waters has run the first 
few rapids, the fact that their untutored stcill and 
a sheet of birch bark only separates one from 
eternity, is forgotten. By those less venturesome, 
the journey can now be made by rail, as a branch 
road Avas completed from Lake St. John to Chic- 
outimi last year. Too much cannot be said in 
favor of the Lake St. John country. Its resources 
for hunting and fishing are absolutely unlimited. 
Enough of both, as has been proven beyond ques- 
tion, is to be had. A detailed account of the many 
trips to be taken, would prove nothing more than 
I have already stated, since what I have written is 
deduced from actual experience. 

My enthusiasm is neither too great, nor unwar- 
ranted. One cannot visit this immense country 
and return with any selfish feelings. There is room 
for all, and what I have learned from experience 
I am only too glad to be able to impart to fellow 
sportsmen, who are seeking a wilderness where 
sport of all kinds is plenty ; where a short or long 
vacation can be taken with equal success and satis- 
faction, and at a minimum of expense. All this, 
and more, can be found in the Lake St. John region. 

57 



Ouananiche and Salmon Akin 



Ouananiche and Salmon Akin 

It has come to my knowledge recently, both 
through letters received, and articles published in 
various sporting- papers, that some anglers differ 
as to the genealogy and game qualities of the 
ouananiche. This I cannot understand. 

If an angler, one who from experience can be 
properly classed as such, has spent a proper length 
of time fishing for this land-locked salmon, has 
o-iven time enough to test the fishino- in all its 
phases, cannot give this great fish its proper clas- 
sification as beinsf the kinor of crame fish, then he 
is not worthy of the name of angler, and should 
study the rudiments of the art. 

That those who have caught the salmon {Salmo 
salaT) can fish for ouananiche, and then state that 
there is no comparison, similarity, or relationship 

6i 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

existing between the two, leads me to beheve that 
either an attempt at jest or ridicule is aimed at, 
or bigoted prejudice in favor of salmon fishing is 
so deeply rooted that excellence in other fishing 
cannot be appreciated. 

I have stated in preceding chapters what my 
observation deduced from practical experience in 
ouananiche fishing, running through a number of 
years, has taught me, but fearing that an individual 
opinion may not have the proper weight, I shall 
quote from able authorities on fishing. 

Referring to that noted authority, "The Fisheries 
of the United States," page 470, we find on the 
subject of ouananiche or land-locked salmon the 
following: "The habits of successive generations 
become hereditary traits, and the difi'erences in their 
life-histories seem to justify the claim of the land- 
locked to be regarded as a variety of Sahno salar. 
* * '^ It is to be designated as Sabiio salar, variety 
sebago. Although both originated in the same 
primitive stock, it is not probable that one changes 
to the other — except after many generations, under 
the influence of forced chanofes in their environ- 

ments." 

62 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

This proves my theory that this fish has been 
land-locked from the sea in the past, and is prac- 
tically the same, except in slight details, which their 
different siirroundinors has broiieht about. 

Further, that authoritative book, "American 
Fishes," in comparing the habits of the salmon 
and ouananiche, page 450, states in substance that 
the methods of the female in both species in ex- 
cavating a nest are similar, and that the manner 
of spawning by both the male and female is identi- 
cally the same in both. 

This has been proven by noted anglers, and they 
find that this function in salmon of both English 
and Canadian waters is the same, and the ouanan- 
iche differs in not the slightest detail. Even the 
period of spawning exactly agrees. 

Quoting from the same work, page 452, where 
it compares the grilse, which is the adolescent sal- 
mon, and the land-locked species, it says of the 
latter: "I have had one of 4 pounds leap from 
the water ten times, and hicrher and further than 
a salmon. Woe to the angler who attempts, with- 
out giving line, to hold one even of 3 pounds; 

he does it at the risk of his casting line, or his agile 

63 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

opponent tears a piece from its jaw or snout, in 
its desperate efforts to escape." 

This would seem to be conckisive evidence that 
the sahnon and ouananiche are truly sui generis, 
as I have claimed, but for unbelievers I will quote 
from the recent opinion of Prof. Samuel Garman 
of the Museum of Comparative Zoology, Cambridge, 
Mass. Fresh specimens of the ouananiche have 
been sent him by my friend E. T. D. Chambers of 
Quebec, and after examination he writes : " Now 
in regard to specific identity, I see nothing by 
which to distinguish the fish of Lake St. John from 
Salmo salar, as represented by specimens from New 
Brunswick, Maine, and other New England rivers. 
It may prevent misunderstanding if it is explained 
that I take the fresh-water individuals, including 
of course, those truly land-locked as commonly de- 
signated, to be the better representative of the 
species ^". salar. As you are well aware, no distinc- 
tions are made between young born of parents that 
have returned from the sea, and those of others 
which have never been there. Propagation takes 
place, as far as now known, only in fresh waters, 
and the fact that some individuals leave these for 

6a 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

a time, becoming somewhat modified by so doing, 
neither gives rise to a different species, nor even a' 
different variety. The change is simply variation 
of an incHvidual, which variation is not a necessity 
for the continued existence of the species." 

Of the edible qualities of the ouananiche, Prof. 
Garman says: "Whether it Was boilecS' and eaten 
with sauce, or broiled, all present at the table con- 
curred in the opinion that the Lake St. John ouan- 
aniche was delicious. The flesh was not as fat nor 
as red as that of the Sabno salar we are used to 
have from the sea. Less of the oiliness was, to 
my own taste, rather in its favor. The deeper 
pink of the meat, and the difference in flavor and 
fatness of marine specimens is due to the differ- 
ences in the food supplies." 

Beyond this I have the opinion of no less an 
authority than Mr. Samuel Wilmot, Deputy Com- 
missioner of Fisheries of Ottawa ; that Salmo sala?" 
fry can be placed in land-locked fresh waters, and 
will thrive and grow^ eventually becoming the land- 
locked species. 

All this I submit as proof conclusive and as sub- 
stantiating my claims, 

65 



The Leaping Ouananiche 

I cannot close in a more fitting manner than to 
quote from Mr. A. N. Cheney, who in commenting 
on Prof. Carman's report, says in Forest aifd Stream: 
"I do not imagine that Prof. Carman's report will 
be accepted as final by every one who has caught 
or may catch the ouananiche, for there are yet 
men who contend that brook trout do not grow 
to exceed four pounds in weight, and the same or 
others contend that the black bass of the small- 
mouthed species does not grow to a greater weight 
than six pounds; but all except these skeptics, and 
those who hold to the belief that horse hairs turn 
into water snakes, will no longer question that the 
ouananiche, the land-locked salmon, and the sea 
salmon, are one and the same fish with different 
environments." 



66 



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